Clinton, MO (PRWEB) May 20, 2012

Zinc dialkyldithiophosphates or ZDDPs may be the most well known oil additives found in any lubricating oil. In much the same way that aspirin cures many ailments, ZDDPs provide many benefits to lubricating oils, especially engine oils.

This class of additives delivers the anti-wear film necessary to protect metal parts under mixed lubrication where metal-to metal contact can occur. They function by adhering to the metal in the engine and are activated as metal-to-metal contact causes temperatures and pressures to rise. The result is a smooth, glass-like surface that provides excellent protection of metal components.

ZDDPs are also excellent anti-oxidants and work synergistically with hindered phenolic and other anti-oxidants found in engine oils. They can work by decomposing peroxides or by cleaning up free-radicals.

Both of these properties, along with their stability are dependent on many factors, and all ZDDPs are not created equal. Different structures activate at differing temperatures and pressures, some are more stable than others.

It is important that engine oils protect engines in all three lubricant situations boundary, mixed, and fill-film. This is why it is important to have extreme-pressure agents like molybdenum, and multiple ZDDPs that protect against scuffing through the entire spectrum of pressures and temperatures that an engine may experience.

Champion engine oils contain a cocktail of anti-wear additives that protect your engine under ALL conditions and are more stable to heat and water than oils with only one type of ZDDP anti-wear additive.

About the company: Champion Brands, LLC, is a globally recognized industry leader in specialty lubricants for over 55 years. Champion Brands, LLC produces and blends over 300 products including fuel, oil, engine additives, and lubricants for the automotive, racing, heavy truck, agricultural, industrial, and specialty markets. For more information about Champion Lubricants contact your nearest Champion distributor, or call Champion at 800-821-5693 or 660-885-8151. Champion Brands, LLC; 1001 Golden Drive, Clinton, MO, or go to http://ChampionsUseChampion.com.

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There are two major categories in fuel savings:

driving habits
vehicle maintenance/upgrades

First, DRIVING HABITS:

Anticipate, use your brakes less, and don’t accelerate quickly. Look far down the road ahead, even if “far” is a city block. Get into turn-lanes smoothly and early: avoid accelerating to get in front of traffic. Anticipate stops or slow-downs ahead and take your foot off the gas: try to coast much more than you brake. Additional coasting distance saves fuel and extends brake-pad life.

Remember: he who leaves stoplight quickest pays more at pump.

Use Cruise Control. It saves fuel and speeding tickets. But it’s not just for cruising. The “Resume” button can give you decent acceleration without wasting fuel.

Overdrive and gear selection. If your automatic has Overdrive, use it. If you have a manual transmission, shift early to keep engine rpm’s lower and always use the highest gear for highway cruising.

Slow down. As you increase speed above 60 mph, wind resistance increases rapidly as a percentage of total fuel consumption. Typically, every mile over 60 mph costs you ~1% in fuel economy.

Carefully consider your route and the time of day: traffic flow is a huge factor.

For example, say that along your interstate travel route, the space between vehicles averages 3 to 4 car lengths… typical of traffic in many large cities. If it’s stop-and-go, fuel economy will be bad. But if traffic is moving smoothly and fast (at 60 – 80 mph), then fuel economy can be superb: those rushing vehicles create a jet-stream of air that dramatically reduces wind-drag losses. Up to 30% gains are possible. For maximum fuel economy, follow a larger vehicle and use cruise control. Also keep in mind wind direction: if the wind blows strongly from the right and you’re in the right lane, you’ll get NO break in wind resistance from vehicles ahead.

Plan and Combine errands to make fewer trips. Think like your great-grandparents did. Plan meals and grocery shop once a week to once a month: just make a list of other errands during the week, plan your route, and do it all in the same trip. Arrange with other parents to carpool or pick up the kids for you.

Such planning may seem like work at first, but it frees up time, helps you relax, and can improve your average fuel economy by 5 to 15%. It can also cut your average weekly miles by 20% or more. Total dollar potential: save 10-35% of monthly fuel costs.

How does this help fuel economy? During the first several miles while warming up, the engine and transmission are not operating efficiently. This is why city fuel economy can drop dramatically in cold weather, when it can take 10 miles for the engine and transmission to warm up. Automatic transmissions in particular can be power hogs when fluid is cold, and manual transmissions can feel like you’re shifting in molasses. (Hot/cold temperatures are one of many reasons to use a full-synthetic 100,000-mile transmission fluid).
So, combining two or three trips into one reduces the miles you drive, and also gets you better fuel economy.

Use air conditioning wisely:

- Keep your windows rolled up at speeds over 40 mph: the air turbulence around the window makes the air-conditioning cheaper than the fuel-economy penalty from additional wind-drag.

- Turn off the air and roll down windows at speeds under 40 mph in the summer heat: the additional wind-drag is cheaper than the air-conditioning.

Fuel economy impact? ~ 1-5%.

Buy fuel wisely. Ok, this isn’t actually improving your fuel economy, but here are some tips to save fuel money. Tuesday afternoon or Wednesday morning fill-ups will normally save you money: those are typically the lowest prices of the week. Also, filling up in the morning when the fuel is cooler will get you a few extra cents of fuel. So your best time to fill up is — on average — Wednesday morning. Don’t “top off” your tank: you risk losing fuel to the station’s vapor-recovery system, giving them back some fuel you’re buying.

Use a good fuel additive at fillup. Injectors with excessive deposits have poor spray patterns that can cost you 2 to 15% in fuel economy. Those deposits are caused by poor quality fuel. Since ’95 the EPA has required all gasoline to have deposit-control additives. But about half of all gasoline on the market is lowest additive concentration (LAC) gasoline, which barely meets the regulation and contributes to excessive deposits.

What can you do? First, if your vehicle is designed for premium gas, and you’re using it, your injectors may be fine: most premium fuels include higher additive levels that are effective at keeping injectors clean. However, what if you don’t use premium? Use “Top Tier” detergent gas — if you can find it — because this new fuel classification meets the 2004 GM/Honda/Toyota/BMW deposit control standard.

If you don’t need premium and Top Tier isn’t available, you probably need an additive. BEWARE: there are many mousey fuel additive products that generate nice sales profits but do little for your vehicle. Find a good one that will actually clean your injectors, keep them clean, and (for diesels) lubricate your fuel pump. Our website suggests fuel additives that we know do the job with quality, for a fair price.

Lose some weight! Clean out your vehicle’s trunk (and maybe the back seat). Tools from that weekend project two months ago is costing you fuel! Every 200 pounds in your trunk costs you roughly 1 mpg.

Don’t drive! Carpool, occasionally ride a bicycle or walk, telecommute for part of your work-week, or take public transportation.

Shift your work-hours to avoid gridlock. Stop-and-go traffic is hard on fuel economy. Arrange traveling to/from work when traffic flow is running smoothly at the speed limit.

Minimize idling — idle smart: Engines only need 10 seconds for warm-up before driving (30 seconds if below zero). Idling your engine more than a minute typically costs more fuel than re-starting it. So avoid drive-through lines at banks and fast-food shops: instead of sitting in line, park and go inside. BUT, when you must idle with an automatic transmission, put the transmission in Neutral or Park while you’re waiting: this will cut fuel usage at idle by 10-40% depending on the vehicle and the transmission temperature. (With manual transmissions, use the brake to keep from rolling back – not the clutch. That saves fuel and extends clutch life.)

Park in the Shade: The hotter the fuel tank gets, the more gas you lose to evaporation.

Smart vacation thinking: If your vehicle is a gas guzzler, consider renting an economical vehicle to drive on vacation. With a discounted week-long rate at better fuel economy, the rental might pay for itself. If you lease your vehicle, using a rental vehicle will also lower your total lease miles.

Keep a log of your mileage and fuel. By monitoring your fuel economy and driving habits, you can see the cost impact of changing your driving style, and you can spot the poor fuel economy that is often a first-alert to maintenance issues. In addition, as you make changes to improve fuel economy, you can measure the exact results (averaged over five or more fill-ups for best accuracy).

Second: vehicle MAINTENANCE & UPGRADES.

These areas often get skipped in recommendations on getting better fuel economy. That’s unfortunate because they can have huge impacts.

Most fuel economy improvements fall into two general categories:

decrease friction in the vehicle’s drivetrain (engine, transmission, differential, wheel bearings, tires);
make it easier for air to flow through the engine, anywhere from the air intake to the exhaust tailpipe.

These are the same areas that performance-enthusiasts change to get more horsepower. I spoke with a Lexus mechanic who has won awards for his modified 2003 Dodge 2500 pickup with the Cummins turbo-diesel engine. He was surprised that with his many thousands of dollars in horsepower upgrades, he was getting about 23 mpg even with large tires and higher ground-clearance. “Every time I increased the power, the fuel economy improved.” No surprise to me: except for tires and suspension, he increased his truck’s efficiency with every power upgrade.

Keep your engine tuned up. If you have a dashboard service-engine light on, you’re likely wasting fuel. Example: bad Oxygen Sensors are a classic problem that can cost you 5-15% in fuel economy. Overall, poor engine tuning and lack of maintenance can decrease fuel economy by 10-20%, or more.
Inflate your tires to their optimum: HIGHER pressures than “normal”. Read carefully. You need EVEN road-contact pressure (equal across the tread) to maximize everything: tire life, fuel economy, bad weather traction, and best overall handling and cornering characteristics with increased road safety. Probably over 85% of car tires on the road are under-inflated, and this costs money in fuel and shorter tire life. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure of all four tires.

“Experts” generally (wrongly) define the “proper” pressure as the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendation. That’s what the government says. That’s what most service shops follow. Unfortunately, that’s seldom correct in your and my vehicle tires.

Fact is that OEM wheel/tire combinations for most passenger cars and light trucks are designed by the TIRE manufacturer for even tread pressure on the ground when inflated to between 35 and 42 psi [pounds per square inch]: that optimum inflation range is much higher than the recommended 28 to 33 psi that are in many owner’s manuals or on door-jamb labels.

If your tires normally wear the tread off the shoulder before the center of the tread, then your tires ARE under-inflated.

So how much air pressure should you use? Visit our full online Ultimate Fuel Economy Guide for important details.

Impact? By our conservative estimates, most vehicles are riding on tires that are 8 psi low, costing about 3% in fuel economy.

Watch your tire choice. Replacing your tires/wheels with wider and/or taller ones may look awesome, but keep in mind that your choice could have a 1 to 3% penalty in fuel economy… or even more in extreme cases like “monster truck” tires/wheels.
Switch to best-quality synthetic oils and filters throughout your drivetrain: engine oil, transmission fluid, differential gear oil and wheel bearing grease. This advice — to use the best synthetic lubricants — is rarely heard, yet it’s an easy area to save money. You save in routine maintenance costs, long-term maintenance costs, time-in-the-shop, and of course in fuel economy. But unfortunately it’s not a simple area to understand. So here’s a brief primer on synthetic lubricants:

The number of vehicle owners turning to synthetic engine oil has increased dramatically, because consumers are learning that synthetics are better than petroleum products in every way, BY DESIGN. More vehicle owners are beginning to realize what the OEM’s and quick-lubes don’t want them to know: that full synthetics can cut wear rates in half and outperform traditional oil for up to 35,000 miles between oil changes.

But consumers don’t realize THREE KEY THINGS:

First, that the benefits of synthetics extend to every lubrication area in the vehicle. For example, most transmissions fail because their transmission fluid has failed, either because the fluid hasn’t been changed frequently enough, or because the fluid overheated. Synthetic fluid helps hugely to prevent transmission problems, and naturally saves fuel at the same time.

Real life: My ’94 Taurus SHO got 10% better fuel economy with engine oil and transmission fluid change, my ’02 Sierra 2500HD Duramax truck got 8% better fuel economy with just synthetic engine and differential fluids, an acquaintance picked up over 20% on a 37 foot gas-engine motor-home, and my friend Phillip’s 1999 Olds Silhouette van picked up 20% just by changing to synthetic engine oil — saving him over $ 600/yr in fuel.

In other words, for most vehicles, high-performance synthetic lubricants are one of the simplest and best changes that you can make to improve fuel economy — yet it’s rarely mentioned! One reason is because it’s brand dependent. Most people will get 2 to 12% improvements in fuel economy, IF they use one particular brand of lubricants, but less or no improvement with other “synthetics”.

Second, not all “synthetics” are real PAO synthetics. Today, in fact, most are fakes because the lubrication industry has agreed that it’s OK to deceive you. (Our site explains how to tell a true synthetic from a petroleum “synthetic”.)

Why do you need real PAO synthetics, anyway? Because in every way they perform better than petroleum products — by design — and because they are uniquely able to save you the maximum amount of money with 25,000 and even 35,000 mile drain intervals, while other “synthetics” are designed for 7,000 to 10,000 mile use, to maximize petroleum-oil-company profits out of YOUR pocket.

Third, not all real synthetics are the same. As a Mechanical Engineer who has worked for years in automotive, and done extensive research (see About Us on my site), I live in the everyday world of real results and have developed some strong recommendations based on data and verification with personal testing. In fuel economy, for example, ASTM standardized fleet testing results with one company’s synthetic lubes in commercial vehicles shows an average 8.2% improvement in fuel economy vs the common big-name commercial lubricants. (See this data on our site.)

Few companies will show legally-binding data based on standardized (tightly defined) test parameters like this, because independent testing on their products will not produce favorable data to support their product claims. In comparison, hundreds of ASTM 4-ball Wear Test results in independent laboratories over years have shown that one company’s lubricants are consistently designed to reduce frictional wear and internal fluid-friction losses to a greater extent than even most synthetic lubricants. Friction reduction translates directly to better fuel economy and much longer-lasting vehicles.

You want data from respected independent testing laboratories? Ahh — so you know marketing claims are worthless! We have overall comparative testing data for many specific oil blends, including Mobil 1: ASTM testing by independent laboratories. While all the oil companies run these tests, generally only one company publishes significant data, while the others rely on vague performance claims and clever marketing slogans. Beware: test results against generic “competitor A, B, C” are legally meaningless. But published/advertised test data against named products is legally binding, with huge lawsuit potential from competitors.

Improve airflow AROUND your vehicle:

- Loaded roof racks or cargo pods can cut 5% or more off your fuel economy. A cargo rack that slides into a trailer hitch allows you to carry extra stuff, still get into your trunk, and use less fuel.

- Sunroof air-deflectors can be handy, but do cost you a bit of fuel. Removing the air deflector might save 1/4 to 3/4% in fuel economy.

- Consider adding a truck bed cover, either soft-type or hard-shell, to get a 1 to 2 mpg boost. What about dropping your tailgate to travel, or replacing the stock tailgate with an “air gate” net or louvered tailgate? They’re not as reliable: results depend on vehicle aerodynamics, bed length, and what you do (or don’t) have in the truck bed.

- Reduce air turbulence under your vehicle: “Off-road” packages with protective underbody “skid plates”, or “ground effects” styling packages can add 1-4% in fuel economy. The downside? The vehicle may be more difficult to service.

- Adding an air deflector to the roof of your truck/SUV when towing will also add 1 to 3 mpg by reducing trailer wind-drag. But it can also reduce your non-towing fuel economy by about the same amount if it’s still in position on the vehicle when you’re NOT towing.

Improve airflow into the engine. This can happen in several stages of increasing complexity, but the first place is the air filter, where air enters your engine. If your filter is dirty, that reduces fuel economy — up to 10% in the worst cases. However, there’s a conflicting problem. Conventional filters should NOT be replaced before the OEM’s recommended interval or they will increase your engine wear rate: they rely on the “dust cake” buildup to achieve effective filtration, which unfortunately causes a pressure drop that reduces fuel economy.

Easy Improvement: Replace your air filter with nanofiber filters born from military/aerospace technology. (Just released in 2005 with worldwide patents, and reasonably priced.) You get pressure drop nearly as low as an oiled gauze filter while filtering out 100% of wear particles down to 3 microns (for real). Clean with an annual tap/shake/vacuum. No warranty problems.

Intermediate: The next thing to look at is the air-filter box design. Many OEM’s have a restrictive flow-path going into the air-box (to reduce engine air-intake noise, or to reduce water intake if you drive through a foot or two of water), including lots of internal stiffener ribs. Sure, the improved strength from ribs may enable you to stand or kneel on the air-box, but they often cause pressure-drop and turbulence.

There are two improvement routes: an aftermarket air-induction system, or DIY modifications.

The best route is to look at replacing the entire air-intake box and filter with an aftermarket “air induction” or “air intake” kit.

Caution: oiled gauze filters won’t keep out many wear particles, so they produce high engine wear-rates. Plus, excess “tack oil” can cause reduced fuel economy and trouble with warranty coverage at many dealers. Choose wisely — go for the OEM certified nanofiber solution if one is available for your vehicle, because nanofiber air filters are the best technical and economical compromise between no filter at all and a restrictive stock filter. The minimum intake choice should include a two-stage dual-density oiled-foam filter: far better than oiled-gauze. If you can’t get at least that in an aftermarket air induction system, then we recommend skipping it: upgrade to a nanofiber air filter, and consider modifying the stock air-box as we outline on our website.

Advanced: see our site for these details.

Our easy, intermediate-level and advanced airflow improvement suggestions can realistically net you from 2% up to a maximum 8% improvement in fuel economy.

Improve airflow out of the engine: Install an aftermarket exhaust system. These have larger diameter pipes and larger, less restrictive mufflers. My point isn’t to get louder, but to reduce “backpressure” losses which cut down on horsepower, torque and fuel-economy. Since increased noise is typical, and some systems are intentionally designed to be loud, you may want to shop for the exhaust sounds you do or don’t want.
Upgrade to a more fuel-efficient vehicle. Careful. Companies and sales people want to make money on your vehicle switch, so watch out for your best interests. First, price matters. You have to save a lot of fuel to pay for a big difference in vehicle price. Paying hybrid premiums to get more fuel economy probably won’t begin to pay you back before you sell the vehicle. Second, real-world driving shows many hybrids don’t live up to their mpg hype. (See our surprising comparison in the online detailed version of this, between hybrids and turbo-diesel vehicles.)
Finally, be cautious in your search for improved fuel economy: don’t waste money on fake fuel-economy improvements. Many products are total fakes or hugely exaggerated. Most companies tiptoe around those realities, but I don’t. So here’s the truth:

- Most “oil additive” or engine “metal treatment” products are or will be embroiled in lawsuits in a number of states. If an oil additive claims a fuel economy improvement over 1%, forget it. Lubrication Engineers explain that oil is a highly engineered chemical package, and that if you want better performance you must buy better oil. Base your choice on published, standardized ASTM test results. That’s the best and cheapest way to get better lubrication performance.

- Fuel treatments/additives and catalysts? 2-15% gains are available, with the biggest improvements for vehicles with a long diet of cheap LAC (Lowest Additive Concentration) fuel. Question the cost vs value. The answer is Yes to some good ones, No to some poor ones, and “why bother” to a lot of them. Question who to trust, and research what you buy.

- A mechanical or electronic aftermarket product? Fundamentally, if it isn’t actually improving airflow through the engine/exhaust, it’s probably NOT going to boost fuel economy. Our site has specific “improvement” examples that WON’T save fuel.

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Hemorrhoids in Truckers: Overview. TRUCKERS! Do you know that you are at greater risk of developing hemorrhoids (piles) than almost any other worker? This is because you are sitting in a confined space for hours on end which in turn causes an increase in abdominal pressure, the bottom-line cause of hemorrhoids. Further, those endless hours in your truck commonly cause the major predisposing factor for complications from your hemorrhoids: constipation!

If it were not for your willingness to brave the elements and spend hours and hours on the road in your truck, and often away from home, the rest of us would suffer in more ways than we could count…..whether we realize it or not! If it were not for “the stuff” you bring to us in your truck, we’d do without tools, furniture, toys, presents, automobiles, building materials, medicine, clothes, food and on and on the list goes. Sadly, we often take you for granted.

Office workers usually sit for hours too but they are at liberty to get up and stretch or use the bathroom or take a break at least every couple of hours without it costing them a smaller paycheck. You, on the other hand, have to make a decision to pull your truck off the road (in a safe place of course), climb out of that monster, and commit some of your precious time which translates, for you, to money.

What are hemorrhoids?

Most of us, except for truckers, know very little about trucking and unfortunately most of us, including truckers, know very little about hemorrhoids. What are these pesky “little” things, anyway?

Hemorrhoids are basically varicose veins of the rectum and/or anus. That means the blood vessels are swollen and twisted and irritated. If they are located inside the rectum, they are called “internal” and are not visible without a medical instrument. If they are located around the anus, they are called “external” and are visible as reddened or even purple balls.

What causes truckers to get hemorrhoids?

In the case of truckers, it is the hour-after-hour, day-after-day sitting in one place that causes a build-up of pressure in the lower bowel. The blood vessels respond to the pressure by becoming thick and twisted.

What are the symptoms of hemorrhoids in truckers?

How will you know you have hemorrhoids? Your doctor will tell you for sure but the following symptoms usually signal hemorrhoids:

- Bright red blood on the toilet paper or in the bowel movement
- Itching and burning around the anus
- Pain with bowel movements (if the pain is sudden and severe, you may have developed a complication called a “thrombus” or, even worse, “strangulation” (which is just what it sounds like). If you develop sudden, severe pain, call your doctor at once.
-A feeling that the bowel is not empty after having a stool
- Tenderness around the anus
- Swelling around the anus
- A lump around the anus which may appear as a purple ball
- A feeling that you are sitting on something

What Causes Flare-Ups of Hemorrhoids in Truckers?

The single greatest contributing factor in the aggravation of hemorrhoids is constipation. Truckers are prone to hemorrhoids because of increased abdominal pressure caused by excessive sitting. “Road Warriors” are also prone to constipation because of:

Irregular bowel habits (can’t stop just anywhere)

Inadequate fluid intake (causes excessive urination)

Low fiber intake (tasty, but often greasy, food)

How Can Truckers Deal With Hemorrhoids On and Off the Road?

There are many steps you can take to ease your symptoms while you’re in your truck and when you’re not. Truckers as a group are a hearty lot and not given to complaining. However, hemorrhoids need to be dealt with because they will only get worse. It’s possible to avoid surgery in the future if the hemorrhoids are taken care of now.

Admittedly, some of the things you need to do will not be easy for you because they will require you to change a few of the ways you “do business”. However, I’m trusting that you understand that if you don’t pay the price now, you’ll pay a steeper one later. Besides, we’re going to make it as easy as possible.

Let’s talk about bowel habits first.
Avoid constipation at all costs! Do this by increasing your intake of fiber. That means fruits and vegetables, boys and girls! Also eat beans and whole wheat breads, cereals, and pasta. Read the labels and go for the fiber! (Start slowly though because adding it too fast can cause gas.)

Establish a regular pattern of emptying your bowels. For example, 20-30 minutes after meals give your bowels a chance to do their work. It’s hard and costly to pull your truck off the road so you need to teach your bowels some good habits.

When you feel the need to have a bowel movement, do it as soon as possible. Otherwise, the stool sits in the colon where it loses water so it becomes hard and dry. This is inconvenient at first but once you’ve followed the previous suggestion and established a pattern, it will bet better.

Do not strain or push when you are moving your bowels. If you keep the stool soft, you won’t have to.

For the same reason, don’t rush by forcing the stool out. On the other hand, do not dawdle on the toilet. Do your business and get up. Use stool softeners if you need to, but not laxatives!
Some nutritional pointers:

As we’ve already said, increase your fiber intake (fruits, veggies, beans, whole wheat, bran)

Carry a bag of fresh fruit/vegetable chunks and whole grain crackers in the truck with you. Munch on these as you motor along!

Increase your consumption of water. Don’t load up on other types of fluids though: coffee has caffeine; sodas have sugar (or chemicals if they are diet); juices are too concentrated; alcohol is drying. Stick to water. You’ll learn to love it. (And, your bladder will also get used to the additional fluid so you won’t always have to urinate every hour!)

Keep a food diary listing foods and symptoms to get a handle on which foods bother you. That way you can avoid foods that clearly irritate your hemorrhoids.

Other tips:

Avoid heavy lifting. If you must do it, do not hold your breath. Way too much pressure build-up!

Wear cotton underwear so as to stay nice and dry.

Change your position as often as possible. Shift your butt frequently. Get out and stretch whenever you can. Rather than sit for your whole lunch break (you’ve done enough sitting), stand up and stretch, bend, take a short walk…anything to get your circulation moving.

Keep your anal area scrupulously clean. Do not use perfumed soaps or wipes. Pat the area gently dry; do not rub!

If you’re having a flare-up:

Apply ice frequently. You have room in your truck for an insulated container. Pack a few commercial ice packs and re-freeze them at night.
Apply moist warmth at least during the evenings when your day is over.
Take a sitz bath (that just means soak your rear end in warm water).
Sleep on your side to relieve pressure.
Put pads next to your anal skin that have been soaked in witch hazel.
Use over-the-counter (OTC) creams, suppositories, and ointments.
Use pain relievers such as tylenol or motrin if needed.

Don’t despair! You can regain your life. The steps listed above take a bit of effort in the beginning but it will get easier. I promise, and I also promise that your effort will be rewarded! Happy truckin’!

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I support deaf people who wants to become truckers. I understand about the DOT/FMCSR rules about hearing losses, but AT LEAST TRY
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Mexico truckers protest dangerous double trailers
By MARK STEVENSON Independent Mexican truckers launched nationwide protests Thursday calling for clearer, fairer rules on vehicle weights and dimensions and for an end to discretionary permits that they say let double-trailer vehicles carrying as much …
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US trucker nabbed in Mexico with ammo is charged
EL PASO, Texas—The Mexican government has charged a US truck driver caught with 268000 rounds of ammunition at a border crossing in Ciudad Juarez with smuggling military ammunition, US embassy officials in Mexico said Thursday.
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US trucker nabbed in Mexico with ammo is charged
By JUAN CARLOS LLORCA The Mexican government has charged a US truck driver caught with 268000 rounds of ammunition at a border crossing in Ciudad Juarez with smuggling military ammunition, US embassy officials in Mexico said Thursday.
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Anyone who has a loved one that’s a truck driver knows that they face some serious stress and trials while on the road. Many people don’t realize there are trials faced by those still at home which are as daunting as the ones faced by the drivers themselves.

Facing Loneliness – It’s never easy to be separated from a loved one, but truck driving families have to face this regularly and often for weeks at a time. To combat this loneliness, partners can talk on the telephone during layovers or when they’re stopping for the night. They can also use email or instant messages while online during down time.

Support Them – Be supportive of your spouse, both while they’re away, and when they return home. Make an effort to be responsive to their needs while they’re home. Managing the home so they don’t have to worry about it is also a way to be supportive.

Remain Faithful – Some spouses or partners may wonder if those away will stay faithful while on the road. This issue may not be verbalized, but it may be a concern. If the couple is having problems with the separation, being tempted to stray is a legitimate worry. Keeping lines of communication open and working at keeping the relationship alive while you’re together will help both of you remain faithful.

Stay United - Raising children is stressful for two parents to do together. When one parent is absent for weeks at a time, the stresses of raising children are compounded. When the driving parent returns home, the children may be resentful of their comings and goings so they may act out. Create set rules that the children are expected to follow, along with specific consequences, no matter which of the parents are at home. The parents also need to maintain a united front; be consistent in your discipline.

Take Time for Yourself – With all a truck driver’s spouse has to do in the driver’s absence, it’s important for them to maintain their own interests and their own identity. You can’t create such a life for yourself that your partner doesn’t feel a part of it when they return, but not having an outlet can cause problems.

Business Time – Many truckers’ spouses help with the business matters while the driver is out. They help them keep track of business expenses, checking on weather conditions, and helping with directions. So instead of dealing only with family financial aspects, the spouse at home handles the business finances as well.

Being married and maintaining a great relationship isn’t easy under the best circumstances. When one spouse is away for a week or more, there are stresses that both partners face. The trials faced by those at home are just as real as those faced by the truck driver, so it’s important for them to communicate and work on any problems that arise together.

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